Mix-and-match tang yuan? That’s a thing at this Kepong shop that’s been around since 1988.

Though ice cream parlours and bingsu shops are popping up everywhere, it’s hard not to return to the classics, especially the ones that have been satisfying our cravings for generations.

If you are a member of the old dessert guard, there is a place that might just tickle your fancy. Called Tang Yuan Fang, it is a family business that has been running since 1988. Its latest outlet is in Kepong, so that’s where I headed recently.

A grandmother’s legacy

While tang yuan is mostly enjoyed during the Winter Solstice Festival, many Malaysians actually eat it all year round. Matthew, the chap running the show here, grew up making these glutinous rice balls with his grandmother, who used to sell them at the market.

Apparently, his granny was quite a famous tang yuan hawker in Port Klang. Matthew later worked in the construction industry but eventually decided to honour her legacy by opening his own stall in a Taman Paramount coffee shop which still operates to this day. His success eventually led to a new outlet in Kepong, the one I visited.

New place, same old recipe

Compared to the bustle of a kopitiam, the new Kepong outlet feels like a refreshing change. Chinese pop songs play softly in the background, and the air-conditioning offers a much-welcome break from the heat.

One thing Matthew does differently from his granny, he said, is that he uses an industrial mixer to prepare the tang yuan dough. “We just have way too many customers,” he bluntly said. So some sacrifices had to be made.

That said, he does still shape the dough into balls by hand. It is also second nature to him, as he tears off a piece of dough, smacking it flat between his palms and rolling it into a ball. On a good day, they sell about 1,200 tang yuan balls.

There are three types to choose from: sesame, filled with a rich black sesame paste; peanut, with a caramelised, nutty centre; and plain, for those who prefer something simple.

Bite-sized balls of joy

Eager to try them all, I ordered the Tang Yuan Mix (RM10.90), which came with three sesame balls and three peanut balls, plus a few extra of the plain ones for good measure.

The sesame balls won me over instantly. While the peanut ones were sweet and crunchy, the bittersweet flavour of the sesame paste stood out more. All the tang yuan had that ideal chewy consistency, soft yet springy.

Of course, a good tang yuan experience isn’t just about the balls. The ginger soup plays a big part too, and Matthew’s version hit the mark. Smooth, lightly spicy, and perfumed with pandan, it lingered pleasantly after each sip.

Little chewy treats

Using a similar dough, the Muah Chee (RM6.90) is another bestseller here. These chewy bite-sized pieces come coated in black sesame, peanut, or coconut flakes (the latter being how Hainanese folks traditionally enjoy it).

Call me biased, but I loved the black sesame version most for its toasty, smoky depth. I later found out that it is thanks to the sesame being roasted fresh daily.

Yummy yam cake

If you need something hearier, the Taro Cake (RM3.50) would be your best bet. Made by one of Matthew’s relatives, it’s packed with yam chunks and has a soft, savoury texture. Dip it in their homemade chilli sauce for a sweet-spicy kick that elevates every bite.

Try-try the chacha

Another yummy (yammy?) treat I had was the Bubur Chacha (RM7.90). The vivid purple hue is impressively natural, derived from boiled sweet potatoes. It was creamy and lightly sugary, with every spoonful of yam and sweet potato cubes melting in my mouth.

Peanut vs peach

The Peanut Soup (RM6.90) was an unexpected delight. I’ve had it savoury before, but this sweet version was new to me. The peanuts, boiled overnight, were so soft they practically crumbled on contact. If you like something mild and delicate, this one’s for you.

Meanwhile, the Beauty Peach Gum (RM9.90) is made with white fungus, peach gum, and longan. Said to have health benefits, it’s light yet nourishing, with the white fungus adding a gentle bite and the gum a satisfying chew.

Also worth trying

Two other desserts that deserve mention are the classic Red Bean Soup (RM6.90) and Gingko Barley Beancurd (RM6.90). The former was sufficiently earthy and nutty, while the latter was definitely on the creamier side of things. Both are comforting choices if the signature items don’t catch your eye.

Is Tang Yuan Fang worth it?

By the time I left Tang Yuan Fang, my second stomach was filled to the brim. Well, dessert may not be great for waistline, but it is certainly good for the soul. And my soul can definitely use a chewy treat now and then. At least, that’s what my psychiatrist said. My dietitian, however, declines to comment.