This Uncle’s Hokkien mee restaurant has been keeping tradition alive in KL for 97 years

Is this really the oldest Hokkien mee eatery in KL? It’s a bold claim and yet, in a video circulating social media, the charismatic owner of this iconic restaurant, an elderly Uncle, nonchalantly states that Restaurant Kim Lian Kee is the birthplace of Hokkien mee in the city.

Standing proud in Jalan Hang Lekir, KL, this beloved noodle eatery has been serving up mouthwatering plates of Hokkien mee for an astonishing 97 years. And it shows no signs of slowing down.

Born in 1927, this restaurant boasts a history steeped in tradition and a recipe that has literally stood the test of time, keeping the spirit of Hokkien mee alive through nearly a century.

97 years of flavourful history

Currently at the helm of this legendary restaurant is the third-generation owner, Lee Heng Chuan, who took over the reins from his grandfather.

Originally, Mr. Lee’s grandfather worked for Mr. Ong Kim Lian, who founded the restaurant nearly a century ago. When his grandfather fell ill, Mr. Lee stepped in to ensure that the beloved recipes and traditions would continue to thrive.

Fast forward to today, and you’ll find Mr. Lee proudly overseeing the bustling kitchen alongside his son, Ben Lee, who serves as the director, guiding the business into the future. This father-son duo honour the recipes passed down through generations, ensuring that every plate of Hokkien mee is crafted with the same care and skill that have defined this establishment for decades.

Dining here is more than just indulging in a good plate of noodles; it’s a celebration of nearly a century of passion, hard work, family, and dedication.

A chance to taste the past

Image Credit: Sang Woo Sohn on Google Review

At Kim Lian Kee, they cook the Hokkien mee over a charcoal turbo stove, charring each serving of noodles and infusing it with a distinct smokiness.

To amp up the flavour of their noodles, they add a dash of flounder fish powder—a cooking secret more common in Hong Kong, and an absolute must according to Mr. Lee. This is combined with a generous scoop of pork lard, creating a savoury richness that elevates the dish to a new level.

After the noodles are stir-fried over an intense flame, they emerge coated in a darker-than-usual sauce, and you’ll find that they’re quite generous with the number of prawns. Priced at RM15, a plate of Hokkien mee here sits at the higher end of the spectrum, no doubt a reflection of inflation since its inception in 1927.

Image Credit: Kelvin LKV on Google Review (left), Tina Yeh (right)

While the signature Hokkien mee steals the show, Kim Lian Kee offers a range of other noodle dishes, including the crowd-favourite Moonlight Kuey Teow (RM17), Fried King Prawn Noodle with Soy Sauce (RM38), and Singapore Mee Hoon (RM17). Diners can choose from small, medium, or large portions.

They also have a couple of fried rice dishes, a hearty pork noodle soup, and various meaty dishes that you can enjoy with your noodles.

Image Credit: 彩欣Cai Xin on Google Review (left), Janice Kee (right)

A polarising rating of 3.4 stars

While Kim Lian Kee may be the oldest (but who knows, really) Hokkien mee restaurant in KL, it appears that it may not be the best. Despite its long-standing reputation, Kim Lian Kee faces some criticism, reflected in its current 3.4 rating from over a thousand Google reviews to date.

This suggests that not all customers are satisfied with their dining experience at this legendary spot. Some reviews express nostalgia in the old-school flavours, while others complain about a decline in quality.

Does the price justify the dining experience? With affordable alternatives available, it is only fair to wonder if customer expectations align with the noodle legacy this near-century-old eatery purports to uphold.

To really get a sense of what Kim Lian Kee’s Hokkien mee is all about, you’ve got to try it for yourself. It seems that the taste may resonate with a different generation of diners who remember the dish from years past.

Ultimately, visiting Kim Lian Kee is an experience in itself. Whether it lives up to its name or simply serves as a relic of the past, the only way to find out is to take a seat at the table yourself. After all, each customer will have their own story of how they keep tradition alive, and perhaps that’s the charm of this 97-year-old spot in KL.