The restaurant industry in Malaysia can be a highly competitive one. It is for this reason that we regularly see new cafes and restaurants opening and closing in a very short time. That’s why you have to respect restaurants that can stand the test of time. It’s an accomplishment to stay open for a year, let alone decades. As it turns out, there are a handful of eateries in Malaysia which are even older than the country itself. So, check out MFT’s list of Malaysia’s oldest surviving restaurants.
1. Yuit Cheong (1896)
Image Credit: Andrew Ho on Google Review (Left), Cheng Han Chua on Google Review (Right)
Imagine opening a kopitiam and having it last more than a century. That’s amazing! Yet, this is just a fact of life for Yuit Cheong, a coffee shop in Kota Kinabalu popular with the locals. The current location on Jalan Pantai is actually Yuit Cheong’s second. The first iteration of Yuit Cheong was built in a settlement on nearby Pulau Gaya. That settlement would end up getting destroyed during Mat Salleh’s rebellion. Hence, the Leong family who owned Yuit Cheong relocated to Kota Kinabalu, then called Jesselton.
The kopitiam is a beloved hangout spot for most locals. They mostly sing praises of the restaurant’s bread and kaya spread and toast with kaya and planta. Yuit Cheong is also famous for its satay stall. Reviews on Google talk much about how delicious the chicken and beef satay are, as well as how addictive the peanut sauce is. The current owner, Uncle Leong, is often seen wandering around the place, telling tourists about the history of his family’s kopitiam.
Address: 50, Jalan Pantai, Pusat Bandar Kota Kinabalu, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
2. Durbar at FMS (1906)
Image Credit: Weng Sun Yip on Google Review (Left), David Quah on Google Review (Right)
The oldest bar in the country, Durbar at FMS used to be known simply as FMS Bar. The bar was originally opened by a pair of Hainanese immigrants who made full use of their culinary skills. Afterwards, FMS became the favourite hangout spot for the rich folks of Ipoh, mostly European plantation owners as well as doctors, lawyers and government officials. The original location was on Jalan Market, before the bar was relocated to its current address on Jalan Sultan Idris Shah.
In the early 2000s, the family which owned FMS Bar sold off the bar. And in 2007, the bar closed for renovations but it ended up in development limbo for 11 years. It was only when architect Seow Wee Liam stepped in that the bar was saved and revived as Durbar. Today, the bar has been refurbished and still retains its old-school look and charm. Newspaper cuttings from 1957 decorate the walls. Like in previous decades, Durbar sells Hainanese food and its Hainanese chicken chop is a crowd-favourite. The restaurant is also famous for its baked stuff crab, which is topped with lots of mozzarella cheese.
Address: 2, Jalan Sultan Idris Shah, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
3. Hameediyah (1907)
Image Credit: Traveller Jun on Google Review (Left), Roslee Yusoff on Google Review (Right)
No list of Malaysia’s oldest restaurants can be complete without a mention of Hameediyah, a legendary nasi kandar restaurant in George Town. Nearly 120 years old, the restaurant actually started as a spice shop rather than an eatery. According to the story, the eventual founder, Mohamed Thamby, migrated to Penang from India in the 1900s. Once in George Town, they rented a house on Campbell Road as their spice shop. To teach locals about how these spices could be used, Thamby started selling curries to customers.
Apparently, there was a rule back then that you weren’t allowed to sell food inside shops. So, Thamby and his sons cooked their curries behind the shop before selling them with rice under an Angsana tree in front of the shop. The demand for nasi kandar afterwards would skyrocket. Even during the Japanese occupation, Japanese soldiers were apparently quite fond of the stuff. After the British returned, they changed the law to allow food to be sold in shops. And so began the first Hameediyah restaurant, where lines of hungry customers still gather daily.
Address: 164 A, Lebuh Campbell, street, 10100 George Town, Pulau Pinang
4. Yut Kee (1928)
Image Credit: Steven Wong on Google Review (Left), Chuah W Pang on Google Review (Right)
The story of this 97-year-old Hainanese kopitiam was set into motion when a man named Lee Tai Yik arrived in British Malaya. A Hainanese immigrant, he spent his first years here as a chef working for the local tycoon Choo Kia Peng. (Trivia: If you’ve ever passed through Jalan Kia Peng, that street is named after him.) With some culinary experience under his belt, Lee finally opened Yut Kee on 15 January, 1928 on Jalan Dang Wangi, which back then was known as Campbell Road. He would run the restaurant together with his three wives.
Currently, the restaurant is under the management of Mervyn Lee, Tai Yik’s grandson. Aside from a move to the current location on Jalan Kamunting in 2014, not much has changed in Yut Kee over the decades. The best-selling chicken chop has been on the menu since 1928. To cater to modern tastes, the menu has since been streamlined. Besides the chicken chop, the restaurant is also famous for its roti babi and fried Hailam mee. There is also a roast pork roll which you should order in advance as it gets sold out very quickly.
Address: 1, Jalan Kamunting, Chow Kit, 50300 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur
5. Tho Yuen (1935)
Image Credit: Tho Yuen on Facebook
In addition to being one of George Town’s oldest teahouses, Tho Yuen holds the honour of being the recipient of a Michelin Bib Gourmand rating. While not the same as a Michelin star, this is still a prestigious rating for eateries “that serve good food at moderate prices”. So you know this place is a must-visit for sure. That said, if you do visit, don’t expect to be seated immediately. The line outside is often long, as locals and tourists alike will be trying their luck at eating here.
If you are lucky enough to get a table, you must try Tho Yuen’s dim sum. This is one of Penang’s most recommended dim sum spots, with all the dumplings, buns and rolls made fresh and hot out of the kitchen. The egg tarts and fish pastries are top favourites, apparently. Also, be sure to try out their famous fried noodles. It might be a bit greasy, but it’s beloved by a lot of Penangites for a reason. And while waiting, check out the old-school decor of the place. The restaurant is built in a modified pre-war shophouse, with a traditional skylight.
Address: 92 Campbell Street, Georgetown, 10100 Penang, Pulau Pinang
You should also check out: This Uncle from China opened a cucur udang stall in SS2 with a legendary 100-year-old recipe
Feature Image Credit: Durbar at FMS on Facebook (Left), Zi Yong Tay on Google Review (Right)
