The wonderful thing about Penang is that right around every corner, you are likely to find a restaurant or a stall with a storied history. One such stall is Neoh Khay Chye, a lor bak stall that can claim to be older than the country itself.
Meet Neoh Khay Chye
Located on Jalan Trang, the stall is named after the late Neoh Khay Chye, who was born all the way back in 1935. His father was a lor bak hawker and was a frequent sight at Chinese opera performances.
Wait, what’s lor bak? For the uninitiated, lor bak normally refers to pork rolls made using minced and spiced pork. The pork is then placed in a soy skin wrap before being deep-fried. Most lor bak stalls sell these along with other fried treats like spring rolls and tofu.
But back to the story. Neoh and his father often set up their push cart outside performance venues, where large crowds would often gather. That way, they could make a brisk business selling their fried food to audience members and performers alike.
Passing of the mantle
Image Credit: Hock Chai Cooking TV on Google Review
This went on until the 1950s, when Neoh’s father passed away. While his recipes survived thanks to Neoh, little more is known about the man and where he learnt how to cook lor bak. We are just lucky we can still enjoy the food his family still makes.
In the following decade, the stall relocated to the road known as Jalan Gurdwara today. Like his father before him, Neoh brought his daughter, Wan Kin, to work and taught her everything she needed to know.
When Komtar was being built in the 70s, many homes and businesses had to relocate to make way for the now-iconic landmark. This included the one belonging to Neoh Khay Chye, which finally moved to its present location on Jalan Trang.
Wan Kin would continue her father’s legacy, fully taking over when Neoh Khay Chye passed away in 2008. She would have about 50 years of experience running the business before she finally stepped back from the stove in 2015.
The mantle has since passed to Quah Chiew Guat, Wan Kin’s niece. She can be seen manning the stall every afternoon, frying up new goodies to feed hungry customers. Like her aunt, she had been helping out at the stall since her childhood.
Rare offerings
Image Credit: Shawn Tan on Google Review (Left), Zacque Long on Google Review (Right)
If you check out the stall, most of the offerings on sale are the same as what Neoh Khay Chye himself would have sold. There are some rarities, though, like braised pig’s head skin and boiled octopus. The pig’s head skin is a treat popular among older Penangites.
Image Credit: AL on Google Review (Left), Hock Chai Cooking TV on Google Review (Right)
Apparently, the pig’s head skin used to be sold alongside braised pig’s ears. Those have since fallen out of favour with younger Penangites and are thus no longer sold. In their place, you can enjoy boiled octopus, hard-boiled eggs and century eggs.
Still, everything at this classic stall remains edible and delectable. The lor bak is crispy, sweet, with a hint of spice. The best way to enjoy them is by dipping them in the homemade sauces. Of course, feel free to order any of the fried goodies that are sold alongside.
Worth your time?
Image Credit: Epoches Tesseris on Google Review
Whether you would like to check out a food stall from another century or just to enjoy a well-made lor bak, a quick stop at Neoh Khay Chye is never wrong. So be sure to add to your list the next time you are in the area.
Neoh Khay Chye Low Bak Stall
Address: 16, Jalan Trang, George Town, 10150 George Town, Pulau Pinang
Opening Hours: 1.30 pm – 5.30 pm daily | Closed on Mondays & Tuesdays
Halal Status: Non-halal
You should also check out: A Subang staple since 1979: Indulge in huge kam heong fried chicken at this mixed rice shop
Feature Image Credit: PH Tan on Google Review (Left), Hock Chai Cooking TV on Google Review (Right)
