In the heart of Taman Paramount, lies a quaint little donut shop, Nareo, that captures the attention and taste buds of those passing by.
Nareo is the brainchild of Yew Shih Sheng, a 31-year-old Malaysian who recently returned home after spending 9 years in Australia.
Intrigued by his journey and the reasons behind his decision to leave the vibrant city of Melbourne, I sat down with Shih Sheng for an exclusive interview.
Meeting the owner of Nareo
As I stepped into Nareo, the aroma of cinnamon and freshly baked donuts enveloped me like a hug. Spotting me, Shih Sheng walked out of the kitchen. Clad in a flour-dusted apron and a warm smile on his face, he was ready to share his story.
“I’ve always had a passion for culinary arts,” Shih Sheng began, his eyes bright with spirit. “It wasn’t until I started working at Shortstop Coffee & Donuts in Melbourne, that I developed a deep love for donuts.”
Having lived in both Sydney and Melbourne during his 11 years in Australia, Shih Sheng found himself constantly drawn to the countless bakeries and dessert spots that dotted the streets of these popular cities. With a culinary arts background, he now boasts 12 to 14 years of experience in the F&B industry.
While he has gained experience working with cupcakes and gelato as well, Shih Sheng worked at Shortstop Coffee & Donuts for a total of seven years, making donuts his specialty. He spent two years at the Sydney branch and five years at the Melbourne branch.
Confident in his acquired skills and knowledge, he decided that he wanted to share the culture of eating artisanal donuts with fellow Malaysians. He also pointed out that there are a myriad of croissant and cake cafes in PJ and KL, but not many artisanal donut spots. He wanted to fill that gap.
All things ingredients, flavours, struggles, and favourites
From his time working at the viral Shortstop Coffee & Donuts, Shih Sheng learnt that using premium ingredients and inventing unique flavours were key to a successful artisanal donut shop. Keeping this in mind, he aimed to be as different from local commercial donut shops as possible.
At Nareo, they only use premium ingredients; like Farm Fresh milk, and quality oil to fry the donuts. A higher percentage of butter and eggs are incorporated as well, to achieve that artisanal donut standard. Ingredients are sourced both locally and internationally.
Inventing flavours himself
In terms of new flavours, it was decided that he needed to create his own foundation of classic flavours, before gradually building with more experimental flavours.
He wanted to see how his customers respond to the traditional flavours, before going ham with crazy inventions. I can confidently attest that he now has unique flavours such as Matcha Cheesecake and Apple Pie Brûlée.
When I asked him how he balances the curation of traditional flavours with more innovative ones, he said it is all in the fillings, glaze, and toppings. “It’s about playing with the flavours and finding a perfect balance, all while keeping the crowd in mind.” Mixing sweet with a little bit of salty, sour with a hint of sweet, or savory with a dash of texture.
Shih Sheng doesn’t like to overcomplicate things to a point where his customers do not know what to expect. He also always considers how the donut can be presented when he comes up with new flavours. At Nareo, he’s noticed that the younger age groups go for the fancy donuts, while the older generation like to stick to the classics, because they prefer to focus on the quality of the actual donut and not the glaze or fillings.
Out of sheer curiosity, I asked him, “Shih Sheng, what do you think makes a great donut?” He chuckled before admitting that he prefers donuts that you can take a HUGE mouthful of, and there’s no clash of flavours.
In Melbourne, the donuts have a good bite to them and are more chewy, almost like a brioche bun, and he prefers them this way. He also pointed out that chocolate or sugar glaze icings will always be superior.
The biggest challenges of Nareo’s founder
Now, you would think that opening a cafe would come with its own set of business related challenges and frustrations, right? With immense support from friends and family, thankfully, that has not been the case for Shih Sheng.
Since the debut of Nareo, what the owner actually struggles with most, is recommending the right flavours to his customers. He admitted that it was difficult for him as different people have different eating habits.
Some prefer sweeter treats, while others want something with less sugar. Some like coffee and some hate matcha, but are willing to try their bestsellers regardless of the flavour combinations.
This is tough ground for Shih Sheng as he does not want to recommend something his customers may not enjoy. At the same time, it is hard to gauge customers’ exact preference.
“Can you share a fond memory related to donuts or baking?” I asked him, intrigued. With a fond smile on his face and a hint of grief in his voice, he told me that he used to watch his grandmother bake. He wasn’t allowed to help in the kitchen, “but just sitting close by and watching her was enough for me,” he shared.
Now, every time he bakes, he thinks of his grandmother.
As our interview came to a close, I asked Shih Sheng which of his donuts is his favourite and why. “Tiramisu,” he replied, without hesitation. Like me, he is a big fan of tiramisu and everywhere he goes, if he sees tiramisu on the menu, he has to order it.
I couldn’t help but feel inspired by Shih Sheng’s story and affable personality. His decision to leave Australia, to reconnect with his homeland, and share his passion for artisanal donuts serves as a reminder that sometimes the sweetest success comes from following your heart.
MFT’s Review
As I sampled some of his donuts, it quickly became clear to me why reviews have been praising his recipes. The donut itself has a very light, fluffy, and airy texture, and the glazes are not sickeningly sweet.
Shih Sheng is in the midst of making his donuts available on Grab. For now, you can pop into the store or order them for delivery through Beepit.
I tried six out of the nine flavours available and here’s what I think of each one:
1. Mandarin Yuzu RM12.50
This is their bestseller and I can understand why. It has the perfect amount of citrus flavour that gives each bite a delicate tang. The meringue is light and fluffy and balances out the sourness of the citrus.
2. Apple Pie Brûlée RM11
This was this month’s new creation. It had a lovely torched layer on the top and was filled with sweet caramelised apples. It had a strong cinnamon flavour profile and unfortunately, I am not a fan of cinnamon. While this was not my preference, I did enjoy the torched sugar on top, which was crunchy and light. It was definitely a unique donut and I’m glad I got to try it.
3. Coconut Kaya RM11
We all know how well coconut and kaya go together. This one had strong local flavours and tasted a little bit like kaya toast to me. The roasted coconut flakes gave the donut some texture and complement each bite. I thoroughly enjoyed this one.
My Top 3
4. Cookies & Cream RM8.50
The cookies and cream donut is a classic and definitely for those who prefer a sweeter donut. Their cookie crumble is made in-house and it’s chocolatey and delicious—giving each bite a favourable texture. This is a good choice for those who don’t want to be adventurous with flavours.
5. Tiramisu RM11.50
Of course I had to try the owner’s favourite donut! Being partial to tiramisu myself, this was an easy win for me. Unlike most places that try their hand at unique tiramisu creations, this tiramisu donut even had delightful espresso soaked ladyfingers inside the donut. The coffee flavour is not too overpowering and each bite is creamy without being too heavy.
6. Hazelnut RM10
While I walked in expecting the tiramisu to be my personal favourite, the hazelnut donut actually won my heart. It was perfectly nutty with a rich chocolate taste and each bite was comforting and so delicious. This was a 10/10 for me.
They also have Classic Jam RM9, Boston Cream RM8.50, and Cinnamon Sugar RM7.
They do more than just good donuts
The coffee here surprised me in the best way possible. It was creamy and strong without a burnt aftertaste, just the way I like it.
Fun fact: Shih Sheng and his team actually curated their own selection of coffee. Naturally, they picked beans that would pair well with their donuts. For all you coffee aficionados, they use Brazil Cerrado beans.
Shih Sheng’s artisanal donut creations have resonated favourably with the locals. Looking ahead, he plans to curate one new flavour every month and I look forward to seeing what he comes up with. Maybe a pistachio donut next? I wish him all the best.
Doing this interview was, for me, not just about discovering delicious donuts in PJ, but it gave me a glimpse of someone’s dreams being fulfilled.
Standing tall and bright in Taman Paramount with its white signboard, is Nareo, a new and comforting donut nook you need to visit.
Nareo
Address: 37 G, Jalan 20/14, Taman Paramount, 46300 Petaling Jaya, Selangor
Operating Hours: 11:00am – 8:00pm, Closed on Mondays
Food Status: Pork Free, Alcohol free
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