Why this M’sian left Melbourne after 20 years to open his own modern Thai restaurant in Uptown

After 20 years of soaking up Melbourne’s innovative food scene, Chef Wilson Teh could have easily stayed down under. Instead, he chose to bring his culinary dreams back home. Today, he’s the proud founder of M Dining, a modern Thai restaurant in Damansara Utama.

With a bold vision, a suitcase full of experience and inspiration, and a love for his roots, he left Australia with the hopes of spicing up Malaysia’s Thai dining scene.

Chef Wilson’s journey is one of passion and reinvention. What inspired him to leave it all behind and make the leap?

Leaving his home away from home

Chef Wilson’s growth from kitchen hand to award-winning chef is nothing short of inspiring.

After living in Melbourne for 20 years and adding to his culinary experience, he wanted to realise his dream of opening his own Thai restaurant—and Malaysia, the country he calls home, was where he wanted to make it happen.

The opportunity to “temporarily relocate back” to Malaysia came when his wife was expecting their second child. Moving back in July 2022, they decided to “test it out”. After a few months of research and consulting with investors, Chef Wilson knew he wanted to stay and pursue his dream.

His passion for Thai cuisine, combined with years of learning and refining his skills, drove him to open M Dining, a place where his culinary journey could truly come full circle.

Image Credit: Chef Wilson

The name M Dining carries personal significance for Chef Wilson. The ‘M’ represents both the modernity at the restaurant and is a tribute to his roots—his hometown of Muar, Johor, and his life in Melbourne. It also honours his late father, Kon Ming, and his children, Marcus and Mabel.

More than just a restaurant, M Dining reflects Chef Wilson’s life, family, and culinary legacy.

Chef Wilson’s approach to contemporary Thai cuisine

According to Chef Wilson, creating contemporary Thai dishes first requires a deep understanding of the traditional cooking techniques. He believes in respecting the basics before one gets creative. Innovation is important, but you have to keep the essence of the dish intact.

His approach is simple but effective: “Keep trying, keep exploring, and keep tasting.” He isn’t afraid to experiment with new ideas, but it’s all about finding the right balance between modern twists and authentic flavours.

Image Credit: Chef Wilson

Chef Wilson’s time at the award-winning Longrain in Melbourne was pivotal in shaping his cooking style and the way he runs M Dining today. Starting as a kitchen hand, he quickly rose through the ranks, gaining invaluable expertise in blending traditional Thai flavours with modern techniques.

He was amazed. “Wow! Thai food can be done this way!” he recalled.

At Longrain, he learned the importance of making everything from scratch, a practice he continues at M Dining with all sauces and pastes made in-house. This commitment to quality and innovation remains at the core of his restaurant’s approach.

M Dining’s standout dishes

Image Credit: Chef Wilson (left), Yeow Sin Ho on Google Review (right)

At M Dining, there are a few standout dishes that embody the restaurant’s modern concept with creative twists.

One such dish is the Pad Kra Pow Bibimbap, a unique fusion of the Korean classic bibimbap and Thai pad kra pow, born from Chef Wilson’s love for both cuisines.

The Scallop Betel Leaf is a refined take on the traditional Thai miang kam, elevated with pan-seared scallops and a house-made chilli jam for a punch of flavour. These dishes showcase M Dining’s ability to blend innovation with authentic Thai roots.

Since returning to Malaysia, Chef Wilson has noticed a significant shift in the culinary scene.

“It’s definitely changing a lot,” he noted. Modern cafes and kopitiams, and creative cuisines are on the rise, and he’s excited to see Malaysians embracing innovation, willing to invest time and money in unique dining experiences.

Challenges in bringing contemporary Thai food to life in M’sia

Image Credit: Jolin Ong on Google Review (left), M Dining (right)

Despite Malaysia’s food scene evolving, bringing M Dining to life, came with its fair share of challenges.

One of the biggest hurdles was introducing the modern Thai concept to a market that’s so familiar with traditional Thai cuisine. With Thailand so close by and many traditional Thai restaurants already established here, educating both customers and staff about this new approach was a significant step.

The competition in Malaysia’s saturated F&B market also made it tough to attract customers, especially when the restaurant is located on a mezzanine floor and not part of a known chain. In the early days, Chef Wilson and his team resorted to food tastings on the streets and handing out flyers to draw attention.

At the restaurant, they focus on both taste and visual appeal, ensuring that the dishes are Instagrammable. While social media has played an essential role in M Dining’s visibility and attracting first-time customers, Chef Wilson believes repeat visits depend on food quality, service, and experience.

A common question Chef Wilson still faces is, “Is your chef from Thailand?” It’s part of an ongoing process of educating customers that a talented chef doesn’t need to come from Thailand to create exceptional Thai food.

Having spent 20 years abroad, Chef Wilson found himself feeling like a newcomer when he returned. None of it was easy. Building connections with suppliers, contractors, and local businesses took time, but he is deeply grateful for the support from family and friends, which has been instrumental in making M Dining a reality.

Finding a balance & advice for aspiring chefs

Image Credit: Chef Wilson (left), Elaine Ong on Google Review (right)

Balancing M Dining’s concept with customer preferences has been another learning curve. “We have our concept, but we’re not stubborn,” the chef explained.

He makes it a point to engage with diners to gather their thoughts and share his modern approach. Taking feedback on their seasonal specials into account is a crucial step in perfecting a dish before it earns a permanent place on the menu.

Image Credit: Ricky Ng on Google Review (left), Chef Wilson (right)

A perfect example of this is the Tom Yum Soup, which wasn’t initially on the menu but became a staple best-seller after high-demand. Similarly, their Tub Tim Krup Reimagined, modernised with coconut ice cream instead of santan, became a hit with diners. It’s clear that staying attuned to customer preferences can still inspire innovation while maintaining the essence of M Dining’s vision.

Thai food reimagined

Image Credit: Fiona Ong on Google Review (left), Lee Sam (right)

Chef Wilson’s culinary journey reflects his passion, dedication, and innovation. By blending traditional Thai flavours with modern techniques, M Dining honours his roots while challenging the conventions of Thai cuisine. Despite early challenges, the restaurant stands as a testament to his resilience.

As Malaysia’s food scene evolves, Chef Wilson continues to push boundaries, offering a unique dining experience where tradition and modernity coexist seamlessly.