This 40-year-old charcoal hokkien mee stall in PJ has raving reviews and we had to find out why

In a corner lot in Section 14, you will find a culinary treat that has stood the test of time. Restaurant Ahwa Hokkien Mee is home to a number of different hawker stalls, from crispy chicken wings to loaded popiahs. However, as the restaurant name suggests, it is their charcoal-fueled hokkien mee stall that steals the show on a daily basis.

I share the opinion that if you ask anyone in PJ where the best hokkien mee is, they will point you in the direction of this eatery. Operating for over four decades now, the unassuming stall has actually garnered a sweeping reputation not only for its smoky flavours but also for the fiery spectacle that accompanies its preparation.

Truth be told, as I was filming this fiery performance from only a couple of feet away, I was scared stiff of the engulfing flames. I kid you not when I say that there were small sparks surrounding me like fireflies, but I persevered for the content.

The heat is on with high expectations

Hokkien mee was a staple throughout my childhood. I craved it constantly, but my love for it wavered as standards dropped. So, I was in fact very excited to try this highly complimented spot. However, as I watched the flames dance around the sizzling wok, enveloping those nearby in an intense heat, I couldn’t help but wonder—is this legendary dish truly worth the inferno it’s cooked in or would it disappoint?

Perched atop the charcoal stoves fed by turbo blowers, are seasoned iron woks that I’d like to think have been around for as long as the stall has. Making small talk with the man expertly navigating the stove, I found out that his father used to run the stall and he is now continuing his legacy.

If you’re lucky, you might just go on a day when his father is manning the wok. The recipe has been in the family for many many years.

A handful of thick yellow mee, tai lok meen, was thrown into the wok after the cabbage and pork had been generously seasoned and whacked-about on high heat. More seasoning was added to give the noodles some colour.

The next part happened so quickly, I nearly missed it. To my surprise, a huge pile of crispy pork lard was thrown in. I could feel my cholesterol levels quaking. The noodles are then left in the wok for a couple more minutes and stir fried continuously, to soak up all that remaining sauce. My mouth was salivating as they plated the mee.

MFT’s Review

What has made this 40-year-old stall a must-visit spot for noodle lovers and do I personally, as a hokkien mee aficionado, think it is worth the hype?

A single portion plate is priced at RM13. I would say this is pretty standard, not too expensive and not exactly considered cheap either. You will find a couple of prawns tucked in your noodles, but it is loaded with juicy pieces of pork. Unlike some places where there is more cabbage than noodles, this stall got the ratio just right.

Simply put, this is one of the best hokkien mees I’ve had in years. Is it the best? No, but it is pretty darn close.

What does it for me is the amount of pork lard, chu yau char, scattered throughout the plate. There is so much in there, that you can taste them in each mouthful, adding a burst of savoury flavour! So good. The pieces of pork meat are also tender and juicy. They’re also big enough that you don’t have to dig around in your noodles to locate the meat.

The savoury, sweet, and smoky flavours are all prominent, blending together seamlessly, and the wok hei in this charcoal-fired dish, was strong. Not to mention, the sambal was smooth, not oily, and did not overpower the dish.

Overall, I would rate this hokkien mee a 9/10. Why not a 10? While the noodles were fully coated in sauce it was more of a dry-coat, I prefer my hokkien mee with a little extra sauce making it addictively slurp-worthy. More meat, prawns, and pork lard, would have kicked it up to a 12/10 but that’s just me being greedy!

Best hokkien mee in PJ? You tell me.

In any case, until I discover somewhere better, I have found my new go-to spot for hokkien mee.

For over four decades, this stall has not only survived but thrived, with charcoal-infused flames that engulf the wok, to plate a dish packed with smoky flavours. I guess the fire isn’t just all for show then.

Is it worth braving the heat? I’d say so.

So, the next time you’re in PJ and craving a guaranteed good plate of hokkien mee late at night, drop by Ahwa. You won’t be disappointed. Just look for the corner stall where the flames dance and the wok sings.