In the vibrant landscape of KL city, where diversity flavours every street and corner, one woman stands out for boldly reshaping perceptions of Indian dining. This is Meriam Sophia Alfonso, the brainbox behind KL’s acclaimed Keralan restaurants: Kayra and Coast by Kayra.
Through her innovative approach and deep-rooted passion for South Indian cuisine, she has not only introduced authentic flavours from Kerala, but has also challenged certain stereotypes related to Indian dining here in Malaysia.
Her restaurants offer an experience that celebrates the rich cultural tapestry of India’s southwest coast, showcasing a deep respect for Kerala’s food scene.
Kayra
In 1949, Meriam’s grandfather opened a Keralan restaurant in Johor Bahru. Growing up in that environment ignited within Meriam an intense passion for culinary arts and hospitality.
For years, she trained her hand at reinventing and polishing classic Keralan recipes. Aiming to add a contemporary twist while maintaining authenticity. Her dedication paid off. In 2016, she debuted her first restaurant, Kayra, where she and her head chef, Sal Sabeel, curated a menu that could not be ignored.
Only seven years later, Kayra made it to the Michelin Guide list in 2023, and once again in 2024. Clearly gaining the recognition it deserves.
Image Credit: Kayra (Google Reviews)
Today, Kayra is known for its Fish Moilee Briyani. A communal table, comfort dish that is colourful and hearty—inspired by meals Meriam shared with her big family growing up. You cannot find this dish in Kerala. You would have to order each component that makes this special dish whole, separately.
Here at Kayra, they have combined a rich moilee sauce poured over a whole seared fish and served alongside a fragrant bed of biryani rice, creating a dish so unique yet cultured. Drawing from the comfort and spice of Keralan cuisine, the chefs at Kayra create authentic and homey dishes. Such as their Mum’s Mutton Stew and Chicken Ishtu, classics served with a hint of modernity.
Image Credit: Kayra (Google Reviews)
Coast by Kayra
The Keralan dishes at this restaurant stay true to their authentic flavours but have modern elements and presentation styles. The same can be said for Kayra’s nautical-themed sibling, Coast by Kayra.
Coast opened its doors in January this year, and while it also serves authentic Kerala dishes, it focuses on Malaysians’ love for seafood. The restaurant practises a sea-to-plate concept that features the Malabar Coast’s rich culinary heritage. In just a few short months, Coast appears to be on the same thriving trajectory as Kayra, with videos of its dishes popping up on social media and going viral, as food influencers film their unique dining experience.
Quickly gaining a stream of regulars, Coast invites its diners on a culinary voyage that celebrates the treasures of the sea. They uphold high standards. Committing to using the freshest seafood, spices, and produce of the region, supporting local fisherman and farmers while they’re at it. Sourcing green lobsters from Sabah, red snappers from Kedah, jumbo clams from Perak, and more, you can expect vivid dishes with melt-in-your-mouth-fresh seafood.
Of course, they also have various specialty imported produce from around the world that they use to elevate their dishes like the Avruga herring caviar they secure all the way from Holland.
Image Credit: Coast by Kayra (Google Reviews)
At Coast, the dishes seem to come alive in presentation styles so unique, you’ll wonder how they ever came up with them in the first place. They also serve the famed Fish Moilee Briyani at this establishment.
However, Coast has its own variety of distinctive dishes such as their Dahi Puri Shooters; pani puri filled with succulent crab meat and a shot of crab rasam. They also have a Squid Kanthari; a decadent curry made with green chilies and served with tender squid, their special Snapper Chuttulli, and so much more.
Innovation knows no bounds at Coast. With professional chefs from India, they continue to push culinary limits with their unique interpretations of dishes from India’s southwestern shores. Dishes that are rarely found at restaurants here in Malaysia.
Meriam Alfonso aims to give Indian food the spotlight it deserves
Meriam’s early exposure to the restaurant industry has strongly influenced how she meticulously shaped the presence both her restaurants have today.
Kayra and Coast by Kayra stand tall as subtle but powerful rebuttals to prevailing stereotypes surrounding Indian cuisine in Malaysia. In a culinary landscape often dominated by outdated perceptions of Indian food as casual and street-oriented, these two Keralan restaurants boldly redefine assumptions through their innovation, elegance, presentation, flavours, and class.
South Indian cuisine, as exemplified by Meriam’s restaurants, is steeped in complexity, diversity, and regional nuances that offer a rich range of flavours and techniques. It is a far cry from just the overshadowing simplistic notion of eating off banana leaves at casual dining settings, or opting for inexpensive meals at mamaks. It encompasses a wide range of sophisticated dishes that vary from state to state and even within different households.
Utilising the experiences of Meriam and her team, these two restaurants not only go beyond stereotypes to educate diners about the breadth of possibilities and versatility within Indian cuisine, but also provide a platform for Indian dining to shine, showcasing the depth and sophistication of South Indian flavours.
Image Credit: Coast by Kayra (Google Reviews)
Modern twists on timeless tastes
From the sophisticated ambiances to the meticulously curated menus, these two establishments feel like they have been designed to specifically redefine perceptions of what Indian cuisine can offer.
Kayra and Coast by Kayra continue to challenge and surpass expectations.
They are not just restaurants that serve up good Keralan food, they also serve as beacons of change within the Malaysian dining scene, fostering a deeper appreciation for culinary diversity and respect.
In essence, at the forefront of her career, Meriam Alfonso has successfully embraced contemporary trends to create spaces that truly celebrate the rich culinary heritage of South India, inviting diners to experience and understand Indian cuisine in a whole new light.
Kayra
Operating Hours: Open Daily, 11:30am – 10:00pm
Food Status: Pork-free
Contact: 017-2157382
Coast by Kayra
Operating Hours: Open Daily, 11:30am – 11:00pm
Food Status: Pork-free
Contact: 017-2157264
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