Apparently the only thing good at this Michelin Bib-Gourmand spot in KL is their dry bak kut teh

While every local knows that Klang proudly wears the crown for bak kut teh royalty, it seems Michelin didn’t quite get the memo. This curious joint in Kepong has somehow managed to snag a Michelin Bib-Gourmand nod, leaving many bak kut teh regulars scratching their heads in confusion.

There must be something about the bak kut teh here that’s caught the Michelin judges’ attention, right? Well, reviews seem to suggest that their only claim to fame is their dry bowl of herbal broth.

Buckle up, foodies—this is my deep dive into understanding how this Kepong eatery was catapulted into the Michelin limelight.

Hing Kee Bak Kut Teh

Image Credit: Carmen Liaw on Google Review (left), Daniel Loo (right)

As bak kut teh holds a special place in the hearts of many Malaysians, Hing Kee Bak Kut Teh has managed to carve out its own niche among locals.

Standing along that street is an experience in itself. The restaurant sprawls across approximately four to five shop lots. Its sheer size is impressive, providing ample seating. With giant pots of herbal broth and more than a dozen cooking stations, it’s easy to see why the place is always packed.

Yet, is the crowd purely due to the Michelin Bib-Gourmand accolade, or do diners genuinely enjoy the bak kut teh here?

As of the writing of this article, the main Kepong branch has a 4.1-star rating with nearly 2,000 reviews. While many reviews are positive, there’s a fair share of three-star, two-star, and even one-star ratings, raising my question: why all the fuss over Hing Kee Bak Kut Teh, and what should you really order if you do decide to visit?

Michelin notes that the bak kut teh soupy dish at Hing Kee presents a “characteristic mild flavour” that’s “well-balanced” with a subtle herb taste and a light sweetness. Meanwhile, many describe the dry version as having a “richer, thicker consistency” with a hint of spice.

Is this what the locals want?

Image Credit: Carmen Liaw on Google Review

Soup bak kut teh

My deep dive reveals that good reviews aside, there seems to be an underlying general consensus that while Hing Kee may hold a Michelin Bib-Gourmand title, it doesn’t quite live up to expectations.

The soup bak kut teh here, priced at RM21 for a single portion, has received criticism for being either overly salty or bland, and consistently lacking in herbal depth.

As noted by Michelin, the soup does indeed present a mild flavour, leaning more towards sweetness with subtle herbal undertones. Its appearance is lighter than the dark, robust broth typically associated with traditional bak kut teh, resembling more of a chicken soup to me.

This lighter hue might confuse or even disappoint some diners, as it suggests a lack of herbs used to achieve that signature rich colour and depth of flavour expected from a classic bak kut teh broth.

I think this is simply the style of Hing Kee’s soup base, which is intentionally milder compared to the robust Hokkien versions typically found in Klang.

Image Credit: Angela Wong on Google Review (left), CheeHove Teng (right)

To add some pzazz to the dish, I’d recommend pairing it with some Yau Char Kwai (RM3) to add an extra layer of savoury crispiness and flavour that will surely complement the herbal broth nicely.

We all know pork belly is undoubtedly the way to go when it comes to bak kut teh, though I know some people do enjoy chewing on the pork ribs (you do you). At Hing Kee, add-ons like enoki mushrooms and fuzhuk are available for a few extra ringgit, essentials for an authentic bak kut teh experience in my humble opinion.

While the quality of the meat cuts at Hing Kee appears commendable, the add-ons can make the overall price feel a bit steep for some.

Dry bak kut teh

Image Credit: Maverick Foong on Google Review

Getting to the real meat of this piece, many diners find that the dry bak kut teh is the real standout dish.

The dry bak kut teh, also priced at RM21, appears to present a more robust experience for most, delivering a flavourful punch with tender meat.

This dish features a mix of lean and belly meat, accompanied by thinly sliced ladyfingers that pack a gentle kick of spice. It also carries subtle notes of salted fish, reminiscent of the flavours found in Ham Yu Fa Lam Pou, also known as Claypot Salted Fish Pork Belly.

When comparing a dish rich in bird’s eye chilli, dried cuttlefish, and a generous splash of dark soy sauce to one with a mild soup base, it’s no surprise that customers are more drawn to the one with robust flavours.

Ultimately, I don’t think that Hing Kee only excels with its dry bak kut teh, it’s simply that this version offers a stronger flavour profile that makes it stand out.

I can understand why many still advocate for the more herbal Klang variant, but for those who prefer a milder bak kut teh experience, I think you will likely find Hing Kee Bak Kut Teh quite fitting.

Worth the Michelin Bib-Gourmand?

Image Credit: Cody Chan on Google Review (left), Max Khoo (right)

Now, back to the question of whether this is what the locals want—do we consider Hing Kee worthy of a Michelin Bib-Gourmand? Well, I certainly can’t answer that alone, can I?

The dry bak kut teh at Hing Kee has catapulted itself into the spotlight, explaining the attention this restaurant has received, even if the soup version leaves many feeling underwhelmed.

Ultimately, while Hing Kee offers a different take on bak kut teh that appeals to some, it might not fully satisfy the traditionalists. Eh, what can you say? The beauty of food lies in its diversity.